Time Will Tell

Hello friends and faithful TEP followers!

It is somewhat difficult to know how to begin with this update. As this is my (Kristina) first time in Tanzania, with this family, and with FANAKA, there are so many things I could say. However, as most of you have been, as I stated, faithful TEP followers, you have heard Eileen, Cassie, or Teresa describe many of the aspects of this life, which are so new and exciting for me. So I will do my best not to rehash facts and details that you all have already read about-but as this will doubtlessly happen at least a bit, I apologize but consider yourselves forewarned.

Eileen and I were scheduled to fly out of Washington DC on Wednesday February 16, 2011 at 11am. We decided Tuesday night that we wanted to arrive at the airport at 8am (as 3 hours is the standard suggestion for arrival when one is flying internationally). After a nearly 13 hour plane right, we landed in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia at 7:45am (this now being Thursday), with the plan of a short layover until our three hour flight into Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Unfortunately, fate has a sense of humor and it was shortly after we landed in Ethiopia that we were informed that our plane would not be going to Dar because the airport had been shut down.

No one seemed to know what had happened in Dar outside of an explosion, and we did not know whether or not the airport would reopen at all that day. So we sat for a few hours, with little information and a great deal of hostile people surrounding us (the explosion was Wednesday night so some people had been stuck in the airport for over 12 hours, and trust me, as much as American airports are uncomfortable and it sucks to be stuck in them, they have NOTHING on being stuck in the airport in Addis Ababa). Yet in the end, it did not end up so badly for Eileen and me. After a few attempts, Eileen was able to use the wireless available in the airport to use Skype to call our surrogate brother Billo (Babu’s son), who was able to confirm for us that the explosion was indeed, an accident not an attack, so no we did not need to go home and yes the airport should be able to reopen sometime that afternoon. His prediction proved accurate. After a complimentary lunch from the airport, we were able to board our plane just before 1pm. Our flight was now rerouted a bit to stop in Zanzibar, but we finally landed in Dar es Salaam airport at ten minutes after five in the evening.

Neither Eileen nor I held out much hope that our luggage had survived this ordeal, as I, like many other people, have had several less than ideal experiences with airlines and baggage, yet somehow as we stood next to the baggage conveyer belt we saw two large blue backpacks come though! I’m not quite sure what I would have done had they not made it to us, because unlike Eileen who packed all of her underwear in her carryon, all I had with me were the clothes on my back –my carryon being supplied with the medication I brought, my computer, one book, and then jammed packed with things for school. Thankfully things worked out I didn’t have to pull some McGyver stunt to construct the rest of my needs for the next three months.

With our baggage securely intact, our passports and visas stamped, and thrilled to finally be on the ground at our destination, we walked out of the airport doors into the blinding sun of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. The heat of the day was quickly leaving the air, and as we walked out I heard Eileen exclaim “Albert!” and knew we had found at least one member of our party. She introduced me Babu’s driver, who immediately took our bags from us towards the jeep, even though he is “of pixie proportions” as Eileen says. A few steps more and I finally laid my eyes on the man I would quickly come to know and call my Babu. He walked up to us and presented us each with a flower and friendly welcome, then proceeding to describe the difficulty he had faced trying to get to the airport throughout the day and how the roads were closed until the afternoon, and how there was so much traffic, etc.

However as long as the light lasted I was able to look out through the streets and see my new surroundings. There was so much traffic and so many people yet they all moved so fluidly together, like a well-conducted orchestra. It was all very impressive to observe. The drive home took a VERY long time, as it was the high traffic time at the end of the workday, so I finally nodded off and awoke as we pulled into Bunju. Worn out and famished from our travels, Eileen, Babu and I ate dinner (along with Babu’s sister whom we call Mama-she has been staying with Babu since Bibi’s death as is customary in Tanzania to help family through the loss) and then Eileen and I went off to bed.

The next few days were a blur of activity. On Friday morning Albert drove Babu, Eileen and me back out to Dar to exchange our US dollars for Tanzanian shillings, and for me to go to the Western Union to pick up the money I had wired myself for my room and board at Babu’s. It is interesting that in Tanzania they do not have a national exchange rate. While I am sure there is some standard set so that it is relatively similar wherever one goes, the exchange rate varies a bit between shops, so that I was given a better (better for me, worse for Tanzania) exchange rate at the place Babu took us to exchange our money than at the Western Union where I picked up my money in shillings. After this, we returned home and had lunch, and then Eileen took me for my first tour of FANAKA.

The school looked pretty good from what I could see. Classes were over for the day so only those students who board at FANAKA were still there, but most were very excited to see Eileen and to meet me. Well, most of the girls were at least; most of the boys were working very hard to be cool teenage boys. Clearly some things are the same no matter where you go! Teenager often equals punk. After spending a bit of time with the students, we went to peek into the window of the library that Cassie Eileen and Teresa set up last summer. It looked surprisingly intact and organized, which was very good to see. We decided to come back on Monday to meet with the Headmistress and try to decide which classes we will be teaching for the next few months.

The main event of Saturday was going to visit Billo and his wife, Eve pronounced like Ava). Eve is pregnant and about ready to pop! We’re told that they expect her to have the baby at the end of this week or maybe next week, so it was great that we were able to visit them, as they will no doubt be very busy very soon! Both of them seem extremely happy and excited about the baby. We sat with them and talked for a few hours during which time Father came to visit! For those of you who are new to our blog, read a few back-issues to learn about Father and his story. He is a wonderful little boy and I am sure you will all fall quickly in love. Also, just a reminder that in Tanzania, the term Father is used synonymously to how Junior is used in the US. Anyway, Father came along with his mother and was quite shy at first, but after a short bit of time he was running around playing games with us. He is such a sweet boy and it is clear to anyone that he and Eileen are fantastic friends. He is also extremely clever, as his English is as good or better than most of the adults I have met here. Cassie and Eileen have been working tirelessly to raise support for Father so that we may get him out of government school, where he is one of three hundred students in a single class, and into a better school where his talents will hopefully flourish. Thanks to their hard work and some fantastically generous donators back home, we now have the money to send him to one of these schools, and finding a proper one that his mother will agree to is one of Eileen and my first and most important goals of this trip. We hope to get him into classes while we are still here if at all possible. Father seems to be in ok health. He is so small (Eileen believes this has to do with Father not receiving proper nutrition which I am inclined to agree with) that when I met him I had no idea that he will be 9 years old this July-I thought he couldn’t be more than 6! But aside from this he seems to be doing ok and was just a happy little boy while he played with us. He came over to Babu’s house on Sunday where he was able to have a good large lunch and played with us as well as the other children who are living in the house with us-they are the three children of a couple whom Bibi and Babu knew for many years and who have recently moved into Babu’s house and work for him, and their names are Lusekelo, Rachel, and Eliezer (after Babu).

We took Sunday and Monday quite slowly because Eileen, who had started to feel ill at Billo’s on Saturday, was fully sick on Sunday with a fever and body ache. She was able to rest much of Sunday, thereby getting over the worst of it, and able to go to FANAKA with Babu and me on Monday to meet with Headmistress. After speaking with her and the Headmaster (second to the Headmistress) we had decided that I would teach all of Form I and the grammar/composition lessons of Form II, and Eileen would teach the grammar/composition lessons of Form III and Form IV. The old English teacher would then teach the literature portions of Forms II-IV (Form I does not have periods dedicated to literature). It was also decided that we would come back Tuesday to find out where Mr. Lazaro had left off with his classes, and start teaching Wednesday-yikes!

Of course, this being Tanzania and all things subject to immediate change, when we arrived at school Tuesday morning (Eileen wanted to be there before classes started to see if the teachers and students were showing up on time and being disciplined) Mr. Lazaro told Eileen that he had told his morning Form III class that Eileen would be starting that morning! So with no time to prepare at all, she was briefly informed on what Mr. Lazaro had taught the class so far this term (term started in the middle of January) and then ran over to the class and started teaching! I told Mr. Lazaro that there was no way I was prepared to take over the Form I class today with absolutely no time to prepare (not to mention absolutely no training in teaching so unlike Eileen I wasn’t able just jump into the classroom). I am happy I was able to observe Eileen in the classroom at least once before I start tomorrow!

We also were informed that they (who they is I’m not completely sure but I think it must have been Mr. Lazaro and the school heads) had decided that with Form IV taking their examinations this spring they did not want to change up the classroom structure or teaching style so close to examination, so Eileen would not be teaching Form IV and instead would be taking over my section of Form II and keeping her Form III classes. Now we are both set with five classes each week. While this number is completely manageable, I am nervous about teaching the Form I because apparently many of them do not speak English very well yet, and I know about 6 words of Swahili. Great. But I guess we will just try to make it work and see what happens! The teachers tried to tell Eileen and me that these students are very clever and it would not bee too difficult for me to teach them English. Time will tell.

Jumping Across the Pond

Hi Everyone!

Well, my name is Kristina Parthum and I’m TEP’s newest abroad volunteer. I recently graduated from Winona State University, where I met and became friends with some amazing people you may be familiar with. I met Eileen a few years back in our Women’s and Gender Studies classes (in which we both graduated with minors) and was immediately struck by her quirky, upbeat, Star Wars-loving personality and absolutely brilliant mind. My Political Science major allowed me to meet Cassie and her seemingly infinite knowledge and enthusiasm for TEP was like a virus that I caught immediately after become friends with her. Quickly after meeting Cassie I met her roommate Teresa, who is an extremely loving and talented woman I am so glad to know. Through my relationships with these women, as well as our other friends and volunteers in Winona, I became involved with TEP and raising funds for them before their trip to Tanzania last summer.

It’s finally time, in less than 48 hours Eileen and I will be stepping out into the summer heat in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania on my first trip to the African continent! For now, we are relegated to our hotel in Virginia, where I find myself trying to assess my feelings about our upcoming adventures. It’s a peculiar feeling to have volunteered, sort of at arms length, with Tanzanian Education Project for the past year in Winona and I am now on the cusp of this incredible journey and going to actually meet these incredible people I have heard so much about. Also, to know that no matter how much I have talked to Eileen or Cassie about Tanzania, I am in no way truly prepared for what I’m about to undertake. There is an odd liberation to that fact but I am finally getting a bit anxious, although I’m sure it will all be wonderful!

Everyone I’ve spoken with in the past few days has asked me if I’m getting excited, with that expectant look on their face because lets face it, who wouldn’t be totally stoked about what I’m about to do? However as I explained to my sister on the phone yesterday, it’s hard for me to really have any strong feelings about what I’m embarking on as it is so outside of the realm of anything in my life to this point. I mean, am I excited? Definitely. But I know my feelings are only a fraction of what they will be once I get settled in my new environment, and I’m excited for that to start.

I can say with complete certainty that I’m insanely excited to spent the next three months (Eileen is staying in TZ one month longer than I) with such an amazing travel companion and friend *cough cough Eileen*. Right now that is where most of my excitement lies! I know she will keep me upbeat and laughing throughout the next few months and lets face it, with a seasoned volunteer to lead me through the wilds of Africa I can sit back and relax with absolutely no concerns, run amuck, and let her be the grownup. Just kidding mom (and Cassie) I’ll be good!!

I do need to take just a moment and thank my parents for their support on this quest. A trip to Africa was not exactly on my mother’s post-graduation checklist for me, and needless to say she was less than thrilled about the thought of it, especially with the recent political atmosphere north of Tanzania, but she has come around fantastically. Love to you both Mom and Dad! Also to my brother, sister, and boyfriend, I will do my best to be safe and will NOT run straight into mischief or try to make friends with the wild animals…at least for a month. And thank you to the rest of my family and friends for their positive thoughts and messages as I venture off on this new journey! I am so blessed to have you all in my life, and I hope I am able to spread some of my blessings a little more outside myself while I am gone. I cannot wait to have been in Tanzania for a week or two so that I can actually have some solid info to update you with! Eileen and I have been spending the day lounging around our hotel room and discussing what our goals will be for the next few months and I cannot wait to get started! I love you all; catch you on the flip side!

Back Again

Welcome back, fair followers!

Well, I’m off again. This will be my second trip to Tanzania, and I am more excited than ever. Better yet- my mother is less worried this time, thanks to my promise to avoid “getting cut” at all costs. (Readers from last time... you may remember my description of an aborted trip to the beach, thanks to a friendly warning that we should “not go down there” as we might “get cut” by “bad men”. Really, I don’t see what the fuss was about.)

Its Eileen here once more. If you don’t remember me from the blog updates last summer, I’m a Leo, twenty-three years old, a former student of History, Theatre and Women’s and Gender Studies at Winona State University with a knack for improv comedy and a penchant for doing funky dances to Prince music. My dream job is to be Indiana Jones and Miles Davis’ Kind of Blue is my favorite album of all time. I am frequently mocked for my obsession with the Star Wars franchise.

I’ve been home and leeching off my parents’ generosity for the last six-ish months and preparing for this trip. As some of you may know, I managed to raise a few thousand dollars for the Tanzanian Education Project, and am happy to be able to carry that money very nervously on my person across the Atlantic and put it to good use upon reaching Tanzania. I can’t wait to see Babu, Billo, Eve, Father and everyone else, and I can’t wait to tell you about all of the new and wonderful people we will meet and COMPLETELY SAFE adventures we will embark upon.

I’m very thankful to be traveling with my colleague Kristina Parthum, another recent WSU grad. I’ve had the pleasure of working with Kristina in our Women’s and Gender Studies classes as well as on projects like raising money for VDAY through The Vagina Monologues and other volunteer work. I know Kristina is going to be a fantastic asset to the Tanzanian Education Project; she is enthusiastic, open-minded and has an incredibly generous heart. I hope she enjoys traveling with me and can tolerate my somewhat scatterbrained leadership style.

Right now, we’re laid up in a quite nice Holiday Inn Express in Leesburg, Virginia. Our flight from Washington, DC Dulles International Airport was pushed back a day by Ethiopian Airlines. Frankly, I’m quite upset by the day gap. After all, its very difficult to spend your last night in the United States on an incredibly comfortable bed, drooling on someone else’s pillows, and not worrying about washing your towels. Also the complimentary breakfast. That’s the WORST. Man, I hate having a smorgasbord of delectable breakfasty treats available. (Read: sarcasm)

However, tomorrow we will be leaving the confines of the hospitality industry and embarking on a wonderful journey. We will fly out of Dulles to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, and then on to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. I can’t say I’m sorry to leave the Midwest at this time of year to pursue more tropical climes. We’ll be shivering as we walk into the airport in DC, and sweating as we stroll into the midday heat of Dar es Salaam. My thoughts are with my friends and family muddling through the end of winter, you brave few who must scrape frost off your vehicles in the wee hours, using credit cards, shirtsleeves and other available tools to clear away that awful, frozen precipitation. Have hope, dear friends, wrinkling your noses as your boogers crystalize on those bleary trudges home from the bar, for the end is in sight! The first warms gusts of spring are on their way, rolling in from the west... or something. I don’t know. I’m not a meteorologist. What do I know? I’m a liberal arts major who uses volunteer work as an excuse not to get a big girl job.

Anyway, I’m ecstatic to return to my second home and begin working hard on our many projects. These will include assessing the cost of installing a water catch system at Fanaka, visiting our other partner schools, Olof Bethsaida Girls Secondary School and Orphanage, Hope and Joy Primary School and ELA Nursery School, revisiting the possibility of putting in a chicken coop on Fanaka’s property and checking the progress of Fanaka’s stationary shop. I hope you’ll stay tuned as the Tanzanian Education Project continues to interact with some wonderful people, and you’ll tolerate my tangents and brief excursions into reverie as I try to illustrate what a great thing the TEP has got goin’ on. See you on the other side, chums!